Gilles Rosier was born in Paris, France, in 1961. He studied at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture in Paris. After graduation, he worked at Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior and as Assistant to Jean-Paul Gaultier, in the 1980's. For some time he was also Artistic Director of the French house Leonard.
He then started his own lines GR 816 and Gilles Rosier in 1992. He also designed for the house of Lacoste for several years, leaving in 1999.
In October 1999, Gilles Rosier took over as head designer for the house of Kenzo, when Kenzo Takada himself retired. He had spent several seasons training under Kenzo before taking over. Having lived in Algeria, Zaire, Gabon, Germany and France, Rosier feels that he is in an ideal position to reinterpret Kenzo's vision of global unity.
One of his recent collections for Kenzo featured classical Japanese details and techniques that evoked an historical mood but looked thoroughly modern.
For Spring/Summer 2002, Rosier sent out a thoroughly modern collection full of relaxed, stylish pieces. He said "I wanted the clothes to be like white paper, being free and discreet at the same time." He cleverly used accessories and fastenings to transform what could have been a straightforward dull collection into a study in deconstruction.
One focal point of the collection was a canvas army belt which Rosier used to pleat skirts, hold a jacket in place, or hold a scarf on a scantily dressed model. Whether weaving in and out of soft-shouldered dresses, or around the waist, this belt gave the loose clothing a hard center.
Rosier presented the Kenzo Spring/Summer 2003 during the Paris Fashion Week in October 2002. However after this collection, he was replaced at Kenzo by Antonio Marras, the Italian designer.
Fall/Winter 2004 ready-to-wear
Gilles Rosier presented his own label Fall collection in Milan during Fashion Week in February 2004. An outfit from the collection is shown on the left.
He showed a clean modern collection mixing masculine jackets over feminine trousers and dresses. Dark colours predominated, but salmon pink and red appeared. It was sophisticated and romantic.
During Milan Fashion Week in September 2004, Gilles Rosier presented his Spring collection. An outfit from the collection is shown on the right.
The show was set in an ice-skating rink, and models lay asleep on beds with chiffon drapes. Silk nightgowns with dragonfly prints, pyjama pants and corseted tops all came down the runway. Light weight scarves were worn with male trousers and suspenders. Baggy pants were teamed with sleeveless tuxedo shirts. The collection was full of calmness and lightness with soft pinbks, creamy whites and shades of pale grey.
Gilles Rosier presented his Autumn/Winter collection during Milan Fashion Week in February 2005. He chose an unusual venue, the Milan Tram System Garage and used the tram tracks as a runway. The models looked like Cavaliers from the 17th century, and Gilles' inspiration was medieval and gothic. His superb tailoring and styling, made for a perfect collection of luxe street wear including long leather coats lined with lambskin, longblack capes and tiered gowns ruched at strategic places. Jackets reminded of Spanish conquistadores, there were jodhpur style pants and vests adorned with coins. Royal Navy pants and peplum skirts were joined by windbreakers with dolman sleeves.
Paris Fashion Week
Gilles Rosier presented his Spring/Summer 2006 collection during Paris Fashion Week in October 2005. A dark grey satin short strapless dress from the collection is shown on the right. It is an example of his intricate draping.
He transformed a tailored man's wardrobe into a superb collection for a modern lady. He cropped trousers and threaded belts through loop holes and deconstructed tank tops, jackets and trousers. Cuffed shorts (very popular this season) joined cargo pants, trench coats and loose shirts on the runway. His colour palette was made up of men's hues like grey, black and white, sandy beige, chocolate and military green. Some of his garments were a little more feminine, such as a life size print of a pretty pink dress on the front of a pure white dress. He used antique rose underwear as little hot pants.